|
Center of the Jailoo Life  Only 2 ½ hours by taxi from Bishkek and surrounded by magnificent jailoos, Kochkor is, for many travelers, the best place to taste the nomadic lifestyle so important to Kyrgyzstan’s history and culture. Friendlier, quieter, and generally less-intoxicated than Naryn, its oblast capital down the Torugart road, Kochkor has 15,000 inhabitants, most of whom are farmers and shepherds, many of whom live in yurts on jailoos during the summer, and some of whom are more than willing, with CBT Kochkor’s intercession, to welcome tourists into their midst.
For the lucky traveler, this means meadows that seem to touch the heavens, speckled with just enough humans, horses, and sheep to provide a sense of scale. It means carpets of flowers and clouds of butterflies. It means Kyrgyz hospitality unleashed, in all its muttony glory. And at Son-Köl, the crown jewel of the jailoos, as well as at smaller Köl-Ükök, it means fish jumping and water gleaming like burnished gold under the first rays of the morning sun. Naryn Oblast is studded with similar scenes of natural beauty, and Kochkor is a wonderful point of departure for excursions into this majestic terrain. Kochkor Village can be reached from Bishkek (about 200km) by minibus or a shared taxi from the Western ("new") bus terminal in Bishkek.
Tours
Jailoo Sarala-Saz Köl-Ükök (“Explore the Lake in the Chest”; several options available) Kyzart – Kilemche (3-day horseback tour) “Beauty of the four Jailoos” Tour (3-day horseback tour) “On the tracks of the nomads” (3-day tour, combined horseback / auto) From Kyzart to the lake Son-Köl
Services
    
   
Additionally: Bathhouse; display of how to erect a yurt; display of making felt; horse hire and riding; laundry & ironing.
1. “Explore the Lake in a Chest”
Category: Trekking / Horseback
Duration: 2 days
Level of Difficulty: Moderate. One pass has gradient steep; serpentine rising, stony path, slippery path in a rainy weather, especially at the cliffs.
Best Season: From 20 May before shepherds wandering
Requirements: trekking boots, weatherproof warm clothes, hat, sunscreen, tent, sleeping bag, and sleeping pads, some horse riding skills Köl-Ükök Lake is nestled between two steep slopes in the Terskei Ala-Too Mountains. The steep surrounding slopes give Köl-Ükök its name, which means “lake in a chest”. The water is sweet and cold, and reaches a maximum depth of 17m. The area is home to marmots, badgers, wolves, jackals, foxes, hares, and mountain goats or the cry of an eagle, hawk or griffin live here. Around the lake the diversity and originality of flowers – from forgot-me-not to legendary edelweiss – will enchant you. From the mountains in surroundings one can get a panoramic view of 9 lakes, including renowned Yssyk-Köl and Son-Köl lakes as well as smaller ones (Ara-Köl, Köl-Ükök and others). Itinerary:
Kochkor – Kara-Suu village – Ters_tor jailoo – Kol-Ukok Lake Day 1. Transfer by car from Kochkor to Kara Suu village - 9 km (another option: to Isakeyeva village). Continue by horse to the Ters-Tor jailoo. Lunch in a yurt. Wander around the jailoo. See the shepherds’ way of life. Here you can see cows and horses being milked and will be able to watch bread being prepared. Overnight stay and dinner in a yurt
Day 2. Breakfast. 2 hours on horseback to the Lake in a chest. Rest on the lakeshore. Lunch in yurta. You will try local food. Travel back to Kochkor.
2. “In the footsteps of the nomads”
Category: Trekking / Horseback
Duration: 3 days
Level of Difficulty: Moderate-Difficult. 2 passes
The second pass – “Sary-Bel” - serpentine rising, slippery path in a rainy weather. Gradient steep in climbing and descending
Best Season: July – September
Requirements: trekking boots, weatherproof warm clothes, hat, sunscreen, tent, sleeping bag, and sleeping pads, some horse riding skills Kol-Ukok (Lake in a Chest)–unique lake situated at 3000m above the sea level. The depth of the lake is 16 m. However local inhabitants tell the legend that this lake is unfathomable. Because the lake was formed between two slopes of the mountains in a gorge, thus shore of the lake is break with the cliffs. The lake is marvelously pure and keeps the waters from the glaciers. The waters trickle 200 m down to the ground and come up in Ters-Tor, by the waters of the river Ters-Tor to the Kochkor valley. There are a lot of mountain trout in the river. This river is the main source of clean drinking water for Isakeev and Kara-Suu villages, and also the only one source for irrigation of plough-land.
The second lake “Kol-Tor” (Lake at the Peak) is surrounded by glaciers at 3400m and water discharge as a waterfall to 6 meters down and flow into Kol-Ukok lake. Itinerary:
Kochkor – Isakeev village – Kol-Ukok jailoo – Kol-Tor lake Day 1. Transfer by car from Kochkor to Isakeev village - 9 km. Continue by horse to the Kol-Ukok jailoo. Lunch in a yurta. Wander around the jailoo. Spend the night in yurtas near the Lake rounded by snow coved peaks.
Day 2. Breakfast. 2 hours on food to ‘The second Lake “Kol-Tor’. Rest on the lakeshore. Comeback to the lunch in the yurt and stay for next overnight to Kochkor. You will try local food.
Day 3. Breakfast. Travel back to Kochkor. 3. “To the Son-Kol Lake” Category: Auto / Horseback / Trekking
Duration: 3 days
Level of Difficulty: Moderate. Horse riding skills (riding time appr.5-6 hours per day)
Best Season: From July, depending on the pass Kalmak-Ashuu
Requirements: trekking boots, weatherproof warm clothes, hat, sunscreen, tent, sleeping bag, and sleeping pads, some horse riding skills Son-Kul is a mountain lake located in the Tian-Shan Mountain Range at an altitude of 3016m. Song-Kul is used by the shepherds from the Kochkor, Naryn and At-Bashi regions as a jailoo – a pasture during the summer months. It is considered the pearl of Kyrgyz jailoos. The rout to Son-Kul winds through mountainous terrain until it seems to disappear into the very sky itself. This is probably why Song-Kul is translated from Kyrgyz as “the last lake”.
On the way there you may get to see marmots and badgers, hear mountain birds singing or the cry of an eagle, hawk or griffin. Around the lake the diversity and originality of flowers – from forgot-me-not to legend edelweiss – will enchant you. Many plants - rhubarb, wild garlic, etc. - served the ancients as a source of vitamins. There are lots of medicinal herbs. Most importantly, you will be welcomed by hospitable people, descendants of ancient nomads, who drive their cattle here from July till September. Throughout the tour, you will observe the shepherds lifestyle, customs and family traditions as well as see those making traditional, national Kyrgyz milk products - kymyz, airan, and kurut. In a yurta you will find handicrafts - shyrdak, ala kiz and others. You will be impressed by spending a night in the embrace of the mountains. After spending the night in a Kyrgyz yurta, you will feel like a real nomad and this will leave you with an indelible image and unforgettable impressions for the rest of your life. Itinerary:
Kochkor – Kyzart – Kilemche jailoo – Son-Kol Day 1: Kochkor – Kyzart (1,5 hours). Afternoon go up rivet “Bazar-Turuk” to Kilemche jailoo (4-5 hours). Overnight stay in a yurt.
Day 2: Kilemche – Son-Kul (Batai-Aral) through Jalgyz-Karagai (3,300m) – 5-6 hours. Overnight stay in Batai Aral Yurt Camp.
Day 3: Come back by auto road through Kalmak-Ashuu Pass to Kochkor.
4. “Beauty of the four jailoos”
Category: Auto / Horseback / Trekking
Duration: 4 days
Level of Difficulty: Moderate. Two passes: Ozbek-Ashuu (3,400m), Jalgyz Karagai (3,300m). Horse riding skills (riding time appr.5-6 hours per day)
Best Season: Mid July
Requirements: trekking boots, weatherproof warm clothes, hat, sunscreen, tent, sleeping bag, and sleeping pads, some horse riding skills
Song-Kul is a mountain lake located in the Tian-Shan Mountain Range at an altitude of 3016m. Song-Kul is used by the shepherds from the Kochkor, Naryn and At-Bashi regions as a jailoo – a pasture during the summer months. It is considered the pearl of Kyrgyz jailoos. The roud to Song-Kul winds through mountainous terrain until it seems to disappear into the very sky itself. This is probably why Song-Kul is translated from Kyrgyz as “the last lake”.
On the way there you may get to see marmots and badgers, hear mountain birds singing or the cry of an eagle, hawk or griffin. Around the lake the diversity and originality of flowers – from forgot-me-not to legend edelweiss – will enchant you. Many plants - rhubarb, wild garlic, etc. - served the ancients as a source of vitamins. There are lots of medicinal herbs. Most importantly, you will be welcomed by hospitable people, descendants of ancient nomads, who drive their cattle here from July till September. Throughout the tour, you will observe the shepherds lifestyle, customs and family traditions as well as see them making traditional, national Kyrgyz milk products - kymyz, airan, and kurut. In a yurta you will find handicrafts - shyrdak, ala kiz and others. You will be impressed by spending a night in the embrace of the mountains. After spending the night in a Kyrgyz yurta, you will feel like a real nomad and this will leave you with an indelible image and unforgettable impressions for the rest of your life. Itinerary:
Kochkor – Kyzart – Son-Kol jailoo (Tulpar-Tash - Jaman-Echki – Kilemche) – Kyzart Day 1: Kochkor – Kyzart (80km, 1,5 hours) Afternoon beginning of the route to South-western part of Son-Kul through Ozbek-Ashuu Pass( 3,400 m). Overnight stay at the shores of Son-Kul – Tulpar-Tash jailoo. The route will take 4-5 hours.
Day 2: Tulpar-Tash – Jaman-Echki (northern part of the lake) Route of the day – 4-5 hours. Overnightstay in shepherd’s yurt.
Day 3: Jaman-Echki – Kilemche – Kyzart (5-6 hours). Lunch in Kilemche. Come back to Kyzart village from the east. Overnight stay in a CBT Guesthouse. Can order visit to “Russkaya banya” (Russian Bathhouse).
Day 4: After the breakfast go to Kochkor by public conveyances or private taxi.
5. “The Magic Lake”
Category: Auto / Horseback / Trekking
Duration: 6 days
Level of Difficulty: Difficult. Four passes, the most difficult is Kum-Bel (3,600 m). One big river – Sook, possible to fort river on a horseback. Horse riding skills (riding time appr.5-6 hours per day)
Best Season: Mid-July – September
Requirements: trekking boots, weatherproof warm clothes, hat, sunscreen, tent, sleeping bag, and sleeping pads, some horse riding skills Song-Kul is a mountain lake located in the Tian-Shan Mountain Range at an altitude of 3016m. Song-Kul is used by the shepherds from the Kochkor, Naryn and At-Bashi regions as a jailoo – a pasture during the summer months. It is considered the pearl of Kyrgyz jailoos. The roud to Song-Kul winds through mountainous terrain until it seems to disappear into the very sky itself. This is probably why Song-Kul is translated from Kyrgyz as “the last lake”.
On the way there you may get to see marmots and badgers, hear mountain birds singing or the cry of an eagle, hawk or griffin. Around the lake the diversity and originality of flowers – from forgot-me-not to legend edelweiss – will enchant you. Many plants - rhubarb, wild garlic, etc. - served the ancients as a source of vitamins. There are lots of medicinal herbs. Most importantly, you will be welcomed by hospitable people, descendants of ancient nomads, who drive their cattle here from July till September. Throughout the tour, you will observe the shepherds lifestyle, customs and family traditions as well as see them making traditional, national Kyrgyz milk products - kymyz, airan, and kurut. In a yurta you will find handicrafts - shyrdak, ala kiz and others. You will be impressed by spending a night in the embrace of the mountains. After spending the night in a Kyrgyz yurta, you will feel like a real nomad and this will leave you with an indelible image and unforgettable impressions for the rest of your life. Itinerary:
Kochkor – Sarala-Saz jailoo – Ak-Bel – Sook – Uu-Tor – Chaar-Archa – Kilemche – Son-Kol (Batai-Aral) – Kochkor Day 1: Kochkor – Sarala-Saz by car. Dinner and overnight stay in yurt.
Day 2: Sarala-Saz – Ak-Bel (3-4 hours) walk or on a horseback. Rout without passes, day of adaptation for mountainous routs. Dinner and overnights stay in tent.
Day 3: Ak-Bel – Sook. Pass “Buchuk” (3,200m). Rout of tha day is 5-6 hours. Dinner and overnights stay in tent.
Day 4: Sook – Uu-Tor. Through Kolduu-Suu jailoo, Kum-Bel Pass (3,600m) and Kyzart Pass (3,000 m). 6-7 hours. Dinner and overnights stay in tent.
Day 5: Uu-Tor – Kilemche. Going though Chaar-Archa Gorge. Ford a river Chaar-Archa. 4-5 hours.
Day 6: Kilemche – Son-Kul (Batai-Aral) through Jalgyz-Karagai Pass (3,300m). 4-5 hours.
Lunch at yurt in Jaman-Echki. The end of rout afternoon from Jaman-Echki to Batai-Aral (1,5 hours)
Day 7: Son-Kol – Kochkor by car (3 hours) Name: Jailoo-Hopping To Song-Kl
Destinations: Kochkor village – Sarala-Saz jailoo – Song-Kl Lake – Kochkor
Duration: 6 days
Category of tour: Horseback riding / trekking
Level of difficulty: Difficult (5 passes, the highest at 3600 m, one ascent to 3656 m)
Season: late June to early September
“Jailoo-Hopping to Song-Kol”
6-day horse tour
The jailoos are the pastures where Kyrgyz shepherds tend their flocks in the summer, and Song-Kl is the jewel of the jailoos, a stunning 270 km2 of sparkling water at 3016 m, surrounded by 3700 m mountains on all sides. For the fullest jailoo experience, approach the lake via the mountains enclosing
the western end of Kochkor Valley, moving from jailoo to jailoo and staying with shepherd families in remote meadows far off the beaten path. Enjoy homemade jam, fresh cream, bread still warm from the oven, and the best kymyz (fermented mare’s milk) around. The route traverses remote Jumgal rayon, and reaches Song-Kl via Jalgyz-Karagai (Lone Fir) Pass on the north shore. Itinerary:
Day 1
After a morning meeting in Kochkor with the CBT Kochkor coordinator and your local guide, leave town by car for Sarala-Saz jailoo, 55 km to the northwest. After lunch in the first of many yurts, spend the afternoon crossing wide-open pastures and getting a feel for your horse. The first jailoos, Sarala-Saz and Ai-Teke, offer beautiful views of the Kara Moinok and Sandyk mountains to the south. Eat dinner in Ak-Bel jailoo, then take an evening walk over the hill into the beautiful Kashka-Suu River valley, where you can eat wild rhubarb and watch the alpenglow on the southern mountains. Horse time: 3-4 hours Day 2
After breakfast at Ak-Bel, gear up for a long day through nearly-empty country. Begin by traversing the western end of the Kochkor Valley through scrubby dry terrain. After crossing the fast Karakol River, climb 1000 meters over the Buchuk Pass (3400 m). On the other side, after a brief break for lunch on the trail, descend into the beautiful Sk Valley. Wild onions cover the high cold ridges, while lower down whole hillsides of wildflowers bloom. Eagles soar and marmots cry and scurry about. At day’s end, ford the Sk River and climb the green Kichi Saryk Valley to your yurt, where dinner awaits. Horse time: 7-8 hours Day 3
After breakfast at Sk, detour to the next valley west, the Kum-Bel, for the best approach to the 3600 m Kum-Bel Pass. From the pass, follow a ridge eastward and upward to the peak, 3656 m above sea level, with breathtaking 360 views and sheer drops to the north. Continue east, testing your horseback skills (or walking) down scree-covered hillsides, and eat lunch in a sheltered notch. Descend at last into the Kld-Suu valley, and follow it down between dandelion-covered mountains to your yurt, in Kld-Suu jailoo. Horse time: 5-6 hours Day 4
After breakfast in Kld-Suu, head south to the Kochkor-Jumgal road. Follow the road a short ways east to the Kyz-Art Pass, then strike south again. Within sight of the road, cross Kyzyl-Kiya jailoo, an enormous, relatively flat sea of grass. Continue over the Chaar-Archa Pass (3061 m) into the Chaar-Archa Valley and eat a tasty lunch by the racing river, with views of holy 4400 m Baba-Ata Mountain. Sated, ford the river and follow the trail over verdant hills to Kilemche Jailoo. The name means “like a carpet,” and this swathe of grass covers whole mountain ranges, with shadings as subtle as any shyrdak. Dine and sleep in a yurt, naturally.
Horse time: 4-5 hours Day 5
After breakfast at Kilemche, spend the morning climbing to Jalgyz Karagai pass (3300 m), over the Song-Kl mountains and into the lake’s basin. The morning climb affords wonderful views of Kilemche jailoo, and the pass itself is rocky and exciting. From the pass, Song-Kl is still distant, but as you traipse down the slopes, it gets larger and larger, the mountains on the other side get higher and higher, until finally the lake fills most of your field of view and the southern mountains tower above it. After lunch at Jaman Echki, follow the lakeshore east for an hour to the CBT yurt-camp at Batai Aral. Eat a delicious dinner here, stroll along the lakeshore, and hope the legendary Song-Kl weather is kind. Horse time: 4-5 hours. Day 6
After a refreshing and well-earned rest at Batai Aral and breakfast, spend the morning at the lake. Your horses are already returning to Sarala-Saz, but you can rent a fresh horse for a lakeside gallop, exhilarating after so long in the mountains. After a final lunch in the yurt, catch a ride back to Kochkor. Alternative routes
For those short on time, the route can be joined by car on the Sook River (normally the end of Day 2) and continued south as a 4-day tour. Day 6 can also be cut short, with arrival in Kochkor as early as 10:00.
|
